It is absolutely vital to be able to judge accurately whether fish is fresh or not, and for many people this is very difficult. The most important thing to remember is that fresh fish doesn’t smell fishy, it just has the merest scent of the sea, reminiscent of fresh seaweed. Really fresh fish looks bright, slippery and lively and not at all dull, whereas stale fish looks distinctly miserable. The eyes will be sunken and the skin can be gritty and dry, with a strong fishy smell.
That’s all straightforward enough, but between the time fish is fresh and the time it is really stale there are several days during which it will be gradually deteriorating. It is during this period that it is most difficult to tell just what condition the fish is in, particularly if it has been cut into small pieces. You have to judge by the colour and smell. Check that the flesh of white fish is white and not at all discoloured. The under-skin of flat fish should also be quite white and not yellowing.
It is worthwhile building up a good relationship with your local fishmonger, just as you do with your local butcher. Ask for help and take the opportunity to learn every time you go shopping. When you get some delicious fresh fish, remember to say how much you enjoyed it, but on the other hand if you get stale fish, hand it back gently but firmly. Most fishmongers are very conscientious and do all they can to get the fish to you in perfect condition. This is easier said than done, because they are dealing with a very perishable product.
Remember also that fish have their seasons just as other fresh foods. For example, many of the flat fish such as plaice, sole and lemon sole are not worth eating in January and February because they are full of roe and the flesh tends to be soft and watery look out for some delicious herring instead. For those of you who live far from the sea, frozen fillets can be excellent. Good firms freeze their fish in prime condition within hours of being caught, so it is far preferable to fresh fish several days old.
Here are the final points for selecting fresh fish.
- The eyes should be bright and bulging. Avoid fish with dull and sunken eyes.
- The smell should be a fresh saline, seaboard odour. Avoid fish smelling even slightly of alkali or ammonia.
- The flesh should be firm and springy to the touch. Avoid fish with drooping tails, and that are flabby when pressed with the thumb.
- The gills should be a bright red. Avoid those which are dull and have lost brilliancy.
- Watch the dark side of flat fish, for this shows age first, and becomes dull and lifeless.
- When buying fillets or steaks of fish, avoid that with a creamy or yellow tinge. Fresh filleted fish will be snowy white, firm and compact.
- All fish loses brilliancy with age; choose fish bright of colour.